An internal adventure

How strange for a year to have passed and I have yet to update my blog. Travel? Yes, since my last post there have been trips to Portland (Oregon), Dubai, London (England) and Boston, all which will be written at some point as these cities all have amazing places to share with you all, but today, my travel has been an internal one, and one that I have decided to share today following recent events.

On Thanksgiving Sunday I was involved in a car accident. It was the first time that I was driving a car and was hit by another. It was scary. I was lucky. It could have been a lot worse given that I had a small car and the other was a truck. I don’t have the names of the witnesses of the accident who were quick to help but I am putting a big thank you out there to them all. You are such gems. I came out of it with bruises, some minor cuts, but with a concussion. The cuts and bruises are gone but the concussion lingers on. For those who have experienced a brain injury before, you will most likely relate to the feelings of frustration and of impatience that I am currently going through. The first few days were filled with headaches, nausea, lack of concentration, loss of words, and tiredness. 11 days later and while the nausea is gone, most of the other symptoms remain. I thought that the headaches were gone but when I tried to go to work last week, I made it to mid-morning before I was exhausted and a headache was starting to creep up on me. I have been working from home but even that is still tiring. It’s frustrating to know that you are probably functioning at a fraction of what you are capable of, and it’s even more frustrating to not be able to tell how far along you are in your recovery. Will it be better tomorrow? What about by the weekend? I have been going out on walks and those help. I also tried some cycling today and that was okay, a bit of vertigo though which was unpleasant. Slowly but surely though I hope that I will be back cycling and climbing. A big thank you to my lovelies for being there for me on that day – a raincheck for dim sum, yes? And another big thank you to the friends and family who have been checking in on me and joining me for walks or visits throughout this time, it is mucho appreciated! This lady can go a bit stir-crazy after awhile.

With all this extra time on my hands where I am forced to be slow in my day and my body forces me to rest, I allow my thoughts to wander. It has been an interesting internal adventure to allow myself to be still in my body yet wander in my thoughts and feelings. I look at my relationships (family, friends, love interest, work, even sports) and I have been allowing myself to connect with those relationships in order to appreciate them for their beauty, and to try to understand those that are not quite clicking – and why they aren’t.

Yesterday’s events here in Ottawa – as well as the recent one in Saint Jean sur Richelieu - have further added to the introspection that I have been living in lately. The seemingly senseless killings of two of our soldiers just for what they represent. Things just don’t always make sense. So I want to say thank you. Thank you to all of those who continue to keep us safe – you know who you are. Thank you to those of you who continue to learn, to grow, to understand others. Our freedom of choice and the chance at opportunities will not be lost in these senseless actions. While there are some aspects of Canada that I cannot fully relate to, it’s like any other relationship, it takes work. It takes energy. It takes courage. It takes communication. It takes understanding. And most of all, it takes love and hope to make it work. Like my other relationships, I am choosing to be all in.

Those little places that one falls in love with...

Alrighty, so after having spent 4 months in La Paz, there were bound to be a slew of spots that I loved dearly. I could go on and on about so many little spots. Tasty breads at Arco Iris, that Api stall next to Plaza Avaroa, the lady who sells blue cheese in the Mercado Rodriguez, the man who offers freshly ground pepper, the lady who always sold me my phone cards... the list goes on. La Paz. Your energy and rhythm are still alive inside of me - I don't think that I will ever forget the dance steps to cross your streets. Anyways, I digress. Here is a list (and legend) of some of my favourite spots throughout this city, divided into areas of town.

Legend:
- “$” a visit will cost around Bs10-30
- “$$” a visit will cost around Bs30-60
- “$$$” a visit will cost around Bs60+

SAN MIGUEL
• Roaster Boutique Coffee – this place has a fantastic coffee selection and you get to choose the method by which it is prepared. My favourite? The Apolo in the Aeropress method. They also serve London Fogs, espressos, cappuccinos, light eats, etc ($ - WIFI)
• Vainilla – a lovely find offering tasty rooibos teas. Their salads and sandwiches are also great. ($$ - WIFI)
• Kitchen & Co – the décor is reminiscent of Californian warmth, and the food will bring you back to the West Coast. From burgers and fresh salads to the closest thing to brunch that you can find in La Paz, this is a fun spot to check out for a bite to eat. ($$)
• Pan Y Patio – delicious Italian inspired food ranging from pastas and pizzas to paninis and salads. If you are looking for a the largest copa de vino in La Paz, I am pretty sure that this is it. A must try. ($$$)
• Bubba’s Chocolates – I have a serious addiction to this gem of a spot. Their speciality chocolates are unique and well paired: passion fruit, pistachios, jasmine, grand marnier, tiramisu, spices (not to be confused with their spicy option that has a subtle kick to it), rum & raisin, … the list goes on. ($-$$)
• Fellini – a large, generic-looking place on calle Montenegro, they are an Italian inspired place that offers pastas and pizzas. The draw? Their pizzas are cooked in a wood-fire oven. ($$-$$$ - WIFI)
• Madame Ulupica – Bolivian ingredients with a twist. The cannelloni is made in house. Their hummus made with local beans is fantastic! Their stuffed squid is divine! ($$$)

SOPOCACHI
• Le Moustache – tucked a block away from la Plaza Isabel La Catolica, near to the Puente de las Americas, this restaurant boasts fantastic French cuisine (and as it should as the chef and owner hails from France). Typically French, the menu is brought to your table on a chalkboard and features the menu of the day with several plates on offer. ($$$)
• La Comedie – a distinct French restaurant, located in a ship-shaped building. One of the first fine-dining restaurants in La Paz, and definitely a fixture in the culinary scene here. ($$$)
• La Guinguette - located in the same building as l’Alliance Francaise, this French bistro boasts a variety of goods ranging from a duck hachis parmentier to raviolis and a hamburger with brie and cornichons. Probably one of my favourite places in La Paz, except for the fact that it is closed on Sundays - but to be honest, that is pretty typical of most places here. ($$$)
• La Coca – Bolivian importance held to “la hoja de coca”, the coca leaf is present in varying forms throughout the menu. A busy spot for their daily almuerzo. ($$-$$$)
• Alexander’s Coffee – a typical Western coffee house that you will find throughout La Paz (as well as other larger Bolivian cities). From omelettes and pancakes for breakfast to sandwiches, salads and wraps throughout the rest of the day, they definitely offer something for most appetites. One of my favourites? Their “salvado light” muffins that remind me of whole-wheat muffins from back home, a rare find here in La Paz. ($-$$ - WIFI)
• Mercado Sopocachi – one of my favourite spots to grab a freshly made juice. Head into the market and tucked on the right hand side are a couple of fruit stands. I always went to the “casera” on the left next to the butcher. (>$)
• La Costilla de Adan – a hidden gem above Plaza Espana, close to Plaza Adela Zamoga. This place is open Thursday through Sunday and serves up a range of drinks. The décor is eclectic and the ambiance is reminiscent of a 1920s parlour with tricycles hanging from the ceiling, stuffed animal snakes places on chairs, and varying masks and hats adorning the walls. ($$)

SAGARNAGA
* I haven’t spent much time eating and drinking in this area but here are a few of my favourites…
• Marrakech – located on calle Linares close to calle Santa Cruz, this is a tasty spot to find Morroccan food in La Paz. Aku runs the place and will treat you like gold. The hummus is fantastic, the chicken tajine a great find. Don’t miss out on their mint tea! ($$)
• Baneis – located on Sagarnaga near San Francisco Church, a comfortable spot to grab a coffee and try one of their tasty cakes. ($-$$ - WIFI)
• Café Cubano – a great spot to enjoy a mojito and live Cuban music. Located on Sagarnaga, this place offers up a variety of Cuban dishes with my favourites being the vegetarian platter that comes with yucca and their carne (>>>>). ($$-$$$)

NIGHTLIFE
• Mongo’s - located on calle Hermanos Manchego in Sopocachi, it’s a great spot to meet with friends and enjoy a night out. Top 40 music with mojitos and caipirinhas on offer, this spot will please most. They also have visiting international djs but ask the staff for more information. Please note that ID is required and that one must be at least 21 years old to enter. No cover.
• Traffic – located on Arce in Sopocachi, this spot fills up later at night (around midnight/1am). They offer up live salsa on Wednesday nights. Cover is Bs20.
• Mythology – the newest spot in La Paz, located on calle Goitia near Plaza del Estudiante. Music genre is more dance/electronica. Be sure to get there before 3am if you want to get in. Cover is Bs20.

OTHER PLACES THAT I LOVE
• Tacino Andino – located in calle Jaen near Plaza Murillo, this fantastic shop offers up a variety of leather goods (cow, goat and llama) ranging from wallets and keychains to purses and shoes. They can also do a personalized order and have it typically ready within 4-5 days. Also available are beautiful silver jewellery as well as jewellery made from silverware.
• Coconut – located on calle 21 de Calacoto in the Zona Sur, this shop offers up Spanish-designed clothing for men and women that are made in a factory in El Alto and whose proceeds go back into communities in El Alto to help with youth programs.
• Folk – located in calle Linares, the designer Isa finds inspiration in the textiles and culture of los pueblos and uses typical alloyo textiles in her bags and purses. You can also find her designs in Tienda Frida located in San Miguel.
• Cinemateca Boliviana - a great movie theater located on calle Oscar Soria esquina Rosendo Gutierrez. I caught some Bolivian films here as well as attended a few special events. I definitely recommend checking this place out, even if just to admire the architecture.
• La Joya Spa – located in Shopping Sur on Avenida Arequipa in the Zona Sur, this place is probably the top spot in La Paz for any spa services. From massages and body scrubs to oxygen baths and waxing, this was a luxurious spot that I treated myself to on occasion.
• Cuspide’s Wall – a bouldering gym in Sopocachi, located on Jaime Freyre, next to Plaza Adela Zamoga. It’s family-run by climbing enthusiasts. Fabrizio is a young up and coming climber that I am trying to get sponsored to come and train here in Canada as he holds so much potential – he really lives and breathes for it! His uncle, Roberto, is a well-known alpine guide. If you are into climbing or alpine touring, stop by their shop of the same name, located across the street from the gym.

COMING UP... a post about my last few weeks in La Paz. I have definitely been lax at posting here - my apologies!- but be ready for fun stories ranging from Gran Poder to La Paz' inaugural Midnight Mystery Bike Ride to a Costumed Climbing Comp to wrapping up work in the community... Much love!

Are you really happy? - and other things

"Are you really happy?" "I love your life. How do you do it?" "I live vicariously through you" etc etc... These are all things that have been said to me over the years. Yes, they are lovely, but not all have been. "You can really be a b****." - said in relation to when my boundaries are being pushed and I state my feelings around that. "You're not a good friend when you say things like that" - said in relation to when asked for my opinion about something.

And then today, I came across a post shared by a friend. I have modified it in order to include those that it was excluding and hopefully it 1) helps inspire others to love the life that they are living and have been blessed with, and if not, to then change what they don't like about their lives; and 2) helps others understand how I live the life that I have been blessed with.

Some of these are easier than others, and we will each have things that speak to us stronger than others (and perhaps none will speak to you) but I feel that there is such importance in sharing of these thoughts and processes that may be of use to others.
It's all a growth process and some days are harder than others, but this post by my friend was a great reminder of the things that I like to work on.

Thank you all for continuing to be on this journey with me. I hold much love in my heart for each of you.
Besos!


To invent one’s own life and to live it according to one’s vision requires the companion qualities of imagination and courage.

Be autonomous. Seek no one’s approval and listen to our own counsel. Answer to no one. Try not to impress anyone. Let your work speak for itself. Never make excuses and rarely offer explanations for your actions. Try not to be defensive so as to not be threatened by what other people may think of you. You are in control of your own life and this is reflected in your demeanor.

Be passionate. This shows a palpable energy and enthusiasm that is contagious and beneficial to those around you. In esoteric terms, you will raise the vibration in a group situation. You will inspire others.

Continually learn and evolve.

Be authentic. The mask that you present to the outside world is the same as your innermost heart. Learn to express your emotions cleanly and healthily. What you see is what you get. Know your own truth. Do not impose your truth on others, but share your wisdom when invited to.

Take care of yourself. Do not expect others to take care of you. Treat yourself as well as you would your best friend. Be compassionate and forgiving with yourself and others. Get enough rest and give your body the right fuel – both in oxygen and in food and water. Know what you need. Feed your soul.

Be committed to healing the earth and work towards peace and understanding – whether it is on a large scale or simply within your family and closest circle of friends. Contribute to cleaning up the environment and teach the next generation to do likewise.

See your body (and the earth) as sacred, and be in tune with natural cycles. Be comfortable with your sexuality.

Learn balance and patience. Flow and ebb. Waxing and waning. Try not to stress during ebb and waning times. Use it wisely for rest, reflection, and planning.

Trust your intuition and inner knowing. Learn to tap into this source at will.

Learn to let go of the need to control the flow of the river. Discover the futility of trying too hard. Learn to ride the wave and go with the flow, to ask for and accept when required. Be flexible, fluid, and adaptable. Give up the need to control or manipulate. Do not pout or whine when you do not get your way.

Communicate your boundaries. Be gentle but firm when your boundaries are violated. Respect others’ boundaries. Ask for clarification when necessary.

Recognize and honour others. Lend your support to the work of others. Do not feel competitive or threatened by others, and understand that what is good for one is good for all and that when one shines, the light benefits all. Know how to share and be generous of spirit, but know your limitations and do not give more than what you can afford – emotionally, financially, physically, or energy-wise.

Find the natural state of joy and gratitude. Be at home with your shadow and honestly mourn your losses and explore your fears. Understand that everyone experiences pain – it is a part of life on earth. Therefore work through your own pain with courage and dignity, do not try to sidestep it, or numb it, but go through it and learn from it.

Try to learn to be comfortable with death, and learn to let go… of relationships, concepts, and material possessions that are worn out, or that no longer serve as growth.

From 1,525 metres to 5,000 metres, what a difference a week can make…

A visit by my sister prompted the planning of a couple of different trips outside of La Paz.

COROICO!
The weekend started with a planned trip with 7 friends to Coroico, a town located in the north Yungas region, just 2 to 3 hours away from La Paz, and a great way for my sister to acclimatize to the altitude. 5 of us decided to take the option of riding bikes down the infamous Death Road that winds its way from La Cumbre pass (4,650m), a short 1hr drive away from La Paz, all the way to Coroico (1,525m).
Along Calle Saganarga in La Paz, you can find numerous companies who offer this bike trip. We decided to go with Altitude Biking, a part of Altitude Adventures, located just a few blocks away from San Francisco church on Calle Santa Cruz.
Our trip was fantastic! Even with rainy starts, we made our way down the paved road at the start and then onto the Death Road – a narrow, winding road that has steep drops of hundreds of metres to one side, and often passes under waterfalls. We were soaking wet through multiple layers of clothing, mud-caked faces, but grinning ear to ear. The only things that I would recommend bringing are two pairs of glasses: a clear pair if the roads are muddy as this will help keep the mud out of your eyes as you head down the hills, and a tinted pair for when the sun peaks through the clouds.
Two guides (one who shoots photos throughout most of the trip) and a support van accompany you throughout the entire trip. The van carries food, water, and all of your belongings so you don’t have to worry about carrying any extra weight, or breaking your camera. The trip ends with hot showers, a lunch buffet, and pool time at a private resort.
Our group of friends decided to rent a house for the weekend, complete with our own pool, a couple of hammocks and parrilla (a wicked outdoor bbq set up) to use. I would highly recommend that anyone who is looking to rent a place to check this one out; although a little away from town, Villa Saracena was a fantastic home away from home.

3-DAY SALT FLATS TOUR DURING SEMANA SANTA
A must see in my opinion are the salt flats of Uyuni, complete with a tour around the flamingo filled coloured lakes in the south, volcanoes, sleeping in a salt hotel, and bathing in hot springs.
We decided that since it was Semana Santa (a.k.a Easter weekend) – and that a lot of people would be travelling during that time – that the best thing would be to book our tour from La Paz even though it ends up being more expensive as we would be guaranteed spots on a tour on the days that we were looking for. As our experience with Altitude Biking was a great one, we decided to once again book with Altitude Adventures for both the transportation down to Uyuni and the 3-say tour from Uyuni around the salt flats. Our overnight transportation was booked with the company Todo Turismo, who, not only include a light dinner upon leaving La Paz and a light breakfast upon arrival in Uyuni, but who also run on time. The 3-day tour was booked with the family-run tour company called Lago Minchin who were absolutely excellent. Our group consisted of my sister and I, two girls from the United States, and a lovely couple from Australia/New Zealand. Our tour guide Ollalio (or uncle as we affectionately called him in the end) grew up in the area and provided us with all kinds of stories about his youth. His years of experience as a truck driver were definitely present during the 3 days, and although he did not speak English, he connected with everyone in our group and made sure that everyone was comfortable at all times – even when one of us had forgotten her passport back at first hotel that we had stayed at. Our cook Livia (or maybe it was Lucia?) was fantastic. She took care of us like any aunt would, and was always looking out for us at all times. She made sure to point out any fauna or flora that we came across, and provided all kinds of information about the area.
By the end of the 3 days, we had formed a little family of various Anglophones with our Tio and Tia. I would highly recommend booking with Lago Minchin if you are looking for a close-knit, well-organized tour – but be aware that if you are not comfortable with your Spanish level, you will probably miss out on explanations about the scenery but that you will always be well taken care of.

Sports and other adventures

Since I arrived, I was really keen on attending at least one soccer (football) match while I was here. La Paz has two teams: Bolivar and The Strongest. The Strongest were lined up to play Brazil’s Atletico Mineiro – a team that no other than Ronaldhino plays on, and a couple of friends were already buying tickets so they picked up an extra one for me. Not only did I get to catch a game here, but I also got the chance to see Ronaldhino. Tickets were pricier because of the star factor but even after splurging on the more expensive tickets (“Preferencia”), they still cost Bs100, which is approximately $14 USD so for most who have been to games in Canada, this was a great price. The only downside was that seats are not numbered so it is best to arrive early in order to secure a good spot – which we did not do and ended up spending the first half of the game watching from behind the players area (with their bench covers, we could only see the pitch at one end), we did move for the second half and caught the game from sitting higher up in an aisle.

For a little while, a group of us had been planning on cycling from El Alto to Lake Titicaca, which is about 60kms. Our plan was to rent bikes from Geo Trek, located on calle Sagarnaga, on Friday evening after work. At $17 USD for the day, I wasn’t too sure what condition the bikes might be in but I was keen on giving it shot. Efrain and Delfin are amazing! The two of us who were renting ended up with some well taken care of bikes that were ready for our adventures the following morning.
We were aiming to catch a bus at 7am that would take us up to El Alto where we would begin our ride… that was before an evening that started off with dinner but ended up catching up with friends in a watering hole called “Abbey Road”, then to check out this other bar that none of us had been to (nothing to really write home about), then a quest for some dancing that had us stopping by a friend’s restaurant “Maphrao On”, where some of La Paz’ best DJs were celebrating the birthday of one of their own with spinning some great music…
In any case, 7am came very quickly and although running on 3 hours of sleep, the four of us were en route 45 minutes later. Once in El Alto, we went on the hunt for a place with a presta adaptor as one of us was riding a road bike and definitely needed some extra air pumped into the tires before starting off on the ride. After some serious searching at multiple tire places, we finally found one mechanic who had made his own presta adapter that included holding a couple of flat rubber pieces together while pumping up the tire.
Bikes ready, we were off to tackle the traffic of El Alto. After battling heavy traffic, street markets, muddy roads and massive speed bumps, we were finally on the highway, heading north to the lake!
The highways here can be pretty scary most of the time but somehow, on bikes, I didn’t feel threatened by the speed nor the way that people drive here. We stayed on the large paved shoulder and the only thing that we had to watch for were the minibuses that stop anywhere to pick up or drop off passengers along their routes. Most people both in cars and in the towns along the way were first surprised to see us on bikes (we were three girls and one guy) and then would smile when we would say “buenas dias” while pedalling along. As usual, any other cyclist that we would meet along the way would get a wave and a “buenas dias”; although there weren’t that many, the majority were men from one town cycling to the next one, and one touring cyclist.
Although we were delayed and didn’t make our full 60 kms, we were able to complete 50 kms of our trip and enjoyed a tasty treat of fresh trout, rice and potatoes. What surprised me was that although I have not been on a bike since leaving home over a month ago, plus the factor of fighting a cold, and cycling at 12,000ft, my breathing wasn’t affected.
After our well-deserved lunch, we caught a bus back to El Alto and after getting lost for a little while, we found our way on to the Autopista and rode back down into town just in time to return the bikes and get ready for the fancy jello shot party that one of our fellow cyclists was hosting that night.

Next up? A weekend in Coroico, with tropical weather, swimming, and hopefully more cycling!

Feria and anticuchos

Well, this week's post revolves around La Paz and a couple of things that make up the amazing fabric of this city: feria of El Alto, and anticuchos.

Beginning with la feria de El Alto - this is a market that occurs every Thursday and Sunday in the El Alto neighbourhood of the city. It has a reputation of being a bit of a dangerous neighbourhood where you don't want to be wearing anything indicating that you have money so I definitely did not bring my camera (sorry!), but something that my friend told me is that in recent years this area - and la feria in particular - has gone from a place where pickpocketing is common to a place where families with strollers can be spotted.

Now what is la feria though? Well, it is a gigantic market of goods - and really any kind of good to be honest. From second-hand clothing to electronics to construction materials to car parts (and cars!) to produce and cooked food, la feria spans multiple blocks with each of these segments (clothing, electronics, car parts, etc) separated more or less from the other. The origins of some of these goods is questionable - good will from Western countries? stolen goods? Your guess is as good as mine. One thing is sure though, if you are looking for something in La Paz and you can't find it in the usual spots then you will more than likely find it at la feria de El Alto.

As for the second thing in today's post, well, anticuchos are a popular late-night eat that can be found on the streets of La Paz (and various other cities.) Anticuchos are skewered pieces of meat that are grilled over a fire and served with a spicy sauce and potatoes. The meat in question is typically beef heart, and although I wasn't too sure that I would want to try it, after a night out dancing with friends, anticuchos sounded like the best idea in the world. I will say that they are incredibly tasty but to perhaps pass on the spicy sauce as vendors tend to save and reuse the sauce day after day, making a new batch only when they run out (which can be many days later.) What my adventures of that night resulted in was a Saturday spent sick in bed for the majority of the day. So next time, "anticuchos sin aji* por favor!" - anticuchos without spicy sauce please!
*aji (pronounced ahi) is the name typically used for a spicy sauce.

Next up: a fun 60km bike ride in the altiplano this Saturday with the reward of a fresh trout lunch! I can't wait!

Ultimate Frisbee at 3,500m? Sure, why not!

The past two Sundays, I have ventured to the Zona Sur – an area in the southern part of the city to partake in Ultimate Frisbee (or Ultimate, or Ulti) with the Alti Chasquis team. The Alti Chasquis were formed just over a year ago by a couple of Canadians and an American who were keen on keeping up with one of their favourite activities. Since then, another team of primarily Bolivians has formed and new members are always joining.

For anyone not familiar with Ulti, it is a game played with 2 teams of 7 (or fewer) players on the field whose goal is to mark a point by passing the disc between members of their team until reaching the end zone. For more details on Ulti, Wikipedia has a great overview here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultimate_%28sport%29

For more news on Ulti in Bolivia, check out this article (page 27) that was recently published in the Montreal Ultimate magazine "Le Discours" – but be warned, c’est en francais so be sure to either dust off those French skills or find a friend in Google translate!
http://content.yudu.com/Library/A1zfre/Discoursdition2012/resources/index.htm?referrerUrl=http%3A%2F%2Ffree.yudu.com%2Fitem%2Fdetails%2F634529%2FDiscours---dition-2012

What has been interesting for me is that after spending most of last summer catching friends’ Ulti games and tournaments, I never did get into playing the sport but now that I am in a country where sprinting (let alone running) can be a challenge for me, I have been out practicing drills and learning how to play. Sometimes it just takes a whole new place to really get you out of your comfort zone – and perhaps it’s just yearning for some kind of cardio as I long for my bicycle...

And so, if any of you find your way to Bolivia (or any of the other countries with Ulti teams) and would like to play some Ulti, be sure to seek these teams out; more than likely you will be able to find them on Facebook!




Photos:
1) Cecilia arriving in style to another day of Ulti;
2) The field in La Paz.