Those little places that one falls in love with...

Alrighty, so after having spent 4 months in La Paz, there were bound to be a slew of spots that I loved dearly. I could go on and on about so many little spots. Tasty breads at Arco Iris, that Api stall next to Plaza Avaroa, the lady who sells blue cheese in the Mercado Rodriguez, the man who offers freshly ground pepper, the lady who always sold me my phone cards... the list goes on. La Paz. Your energy and rhythm are still alive inside of me - I don't think that I will ever forget the dance steps to cross your streets. Anyways, I digress. Here is a list (and legend) of some of my favourite spots throughout this city, divided into areas of town.

Legend:
- “$” a visit will cost around Bs10-30
- “$$” a visit will cost around Bs30-60
- “$$$” a visit will cost around Bs60+

SAN MIGUEL
• Roaster Boutique Coffee – this place has a fantastic coffee selection and you get to choose the method by which it is prepared. My favourite? The Apolo in the Aeropress method. They also serve London Fogs, espressos, cappuccinos, light eats, etc ($ - WIFI)
• Vainilla – a lovely find offering tasty rooibos teas. Their salads and sandwiches are also great. ($$ - WIFI)
• Kitchen & Co – the décor is reminiscent of Californian warmth, and the food will bring you back to the West Coast. From burgers and fresh salads to the closest thing to brunch that you can find in La Paz, this is a fun spot to check out for a bite to eat. ($$)
• Pan Y Patio – delicious Italian inspired food ranging from pastas and pizzas to paninis and salads. If you are looking for a the largest copa de vino in La Paz, I am pretty sure that this is it. A must try. ($$$)
• Bubba’s Chocolates – I have a serious addiction to this gem of a spot. Their speciality chocolates are unique and well paired: passion fruit, pistachios, jasmine, grand marnier, tiramisu, spices (not to be confused with their spicy option that has a subtle kick to it), rum & raisin, … the list goes on. ($-$$)
• Fellini – a large, generic-looking place on calle Montenegro, they are an Italian inspired place that offers pastas and pizzas. The draw? Their pizzas are cooked in a wood-fire oven. ($$-$$$ - WIFI)
• Madame Ulupica – Bolivian ingredients with a twist. The cannelloni is made in house. Their hummus made with local beans is fantastic! Their stuffed squid is divine! ($$$)

SOPOCACHI
• Le Moustache – tucked a block away from la Plaza Isabel La Catolica, near to the Puente de las Americas, this restaurant boasts fantastic French cuisine (and as it should as the chef and owner hails from France). Typically French, the menu is brought to your table on a chalkboard and features the menu of the day with several plates on offer. ($$$)
• La Comedie – a distinct French restaurant, located in a ship-shaped building. One of the first fine-dining restaurants in La Paz, and definitely a fixture in the culinary scene here. ($$$)
• La Guinguette - located in the same building as l’Alliance Francaise, this French bistro boasts a variety of goods ranging from a duck hachis parmentier to raviolis and a hamburger with brie and cornichons. Probably one of my favourite places in La Paz, except for the fact that it is closed on Sundays - but to be honest, that is pretty typical of most places here. ($$$)
• La Coca – Bolivian importance held to “la hoja de coca”, the coca leaf is present in varying forms throughout the menu. A busy spot for their daily almuerzo. ($$-$$$)
• Alexander’s Coffee – a typical Western coffee house that you will find throughout La Paz (as well as other larger Bolivian cities). From omelettes and pancakes for breakfast to sandwiches, salads and wraps throughout the rest of the day, they definitely offer something for most appetites. One of my favourites? Their “salvado light” muffins that remind me of whole-wheat muffins from back home, a rare find here in La Paz. ($-$$ - WIFI)
• Mercado Sopocachi – one of my favourite spots to grab a freshly made juice. Head into the market and tucked on the right hand side are a couple of fruit stands. I always went to the “casera” on the left next to the butcher. (>$)
• La Costilla de Adan – a hidden gem above Plaza Espana, close to Plaza Adela Zamoga. This place is open Thursday through Sunday and serves up a range of drinks. The décor is eclectic and the ambiance is reminiscent of a 1920s parlour with tricycles hanging from the ceiling, stuffed animal snakes places on chairs, and varying masks and hats adorning the walls. ($$)

SAGARNAGA
* I haven’t spent much time eating and drinking in this area but here are a few of my favourites…
• Marrakech – located on calle Linares close to calle Santa Cruz, this is a tasty spot to find Morroccan food in La Paz. Aku runs the place and will treat you like gold. The hummus is fantastic, the chicken tajine a great find. Don’t miss out on their mint tea! ($$)
• Baneis – located on Sagarnaga near San Francisco Church, a comfortable spot to grab a coffee and try one of their tasty cakes. ($-$$ - WIFI)
• Café Cubano – a great spot to enjoy a mojito and live Cuban music. Located on Sagarnaga, this place offers up a variety of Cuban dishes with my favourites being the vegetarian platter that comes with yucca and their carne (>>>>). ($$-$$$)

NIGHTLIFE
• Mongo’s - located on calle Hermanos Manchego in Sopocachi, it’s a great spot to meet with friends and enjoy a night out. Top 40 music with mojitos and caipirinhas on offer, this spot will please most. They also have visiting international djs but ask the staff for more information. Please note that ID is required and that one must be at least 21 years old to enter. No cover.
• Traffic – located on Arce in Sopocachi, this spot fills up later at night (around midnight/1am). They offer up live salsa on Wednesday nights. Cover is Bs20.
• Mythology – the newest spot in La Paz, located on calle Goitia near Plaza del Estudiante. Music genre is more dance/electronica. Be sure to get there before 3am if you want to get in. Cover is Bs20.

OTHER PLACES THAT I LOVE
• Tacino Andino – located in calle Jaen near Plaza Murillo, this fantastic shop offers up a variety of leather goods (cow, goat and llama) ranging from wallets and keychains to purses and shoes. They can also do a personalized order and have it typically ready within 4-5 days. Also available are beautiful silver jewellery as well as jewellery made from silverware.
• Coconut – located on calle 21 de Calacoto in the Zona Sur, this shop offers up Spanish-designed clothing for men and women that are made in a factory in El Alto and whose proceeds go back into communities in El Alto to help with youth programs.
• Folk – located in calle Linares, the designer Isa finds inspiration in the textiles and culture of los pueblos and uses typical alloyo textiles in her bags and purses. You can also find her designs in Tienda Frida located in San Miguel.
• Cinemateca Boliviana - a great movie theater located on calle Oscar Soria esquina Rosendo Gutierrez. I caught some Bolivian films here as well as attended a few special events. I definitely recommend checking this place out, even if just to admire the architecture.
• La Joya Spa – located in Shopping Sur on Avenida Arequipa in the Zona Sur, this place is probably the top spot in La Paz for any spa services. From massages and body scrubs to oxygen baths and waxing, this was a luxurious spot that I treated myself to on occasion.
• Cuspide’s Wall – a bouldering gym in Sopocachi, located on Jaime Freyre, next to Plaza Adela Zamoga. It’s family-run by climbing enthusiasts. Fabrizio is a young up and coming climber that I am trying to get sponsored to come and train here in Canada as he holds so much potential – he really lives and breathes for it! His uncle, Roberto, is a well-known alpine guide. If you are into climbing or alpine touring, stop by their shop of the same name, located across the street from the gym.

COMING UP... a post about my last few weeks in La Paz. I have definitely been lax at posting here - my apologies!- but be ready for fun stories ranging from Gran Poder to La Paz' inaugural Midnight Mystery Bike Ride to a Costumed Climbing Comp to wrapping up work in the community... Much love!

Are you really happy? - and other things

"Are you really happy?" "I love your life. How do you do it?" "I live vicariously through you" etc etc... These are all things that have been said to me over the years. Yes, they are lovely, but not all have been. "You can really be a b****." - said in relation to when my boundaries are being pushed and I state my feelings around that. "You're not a good friend when you say things like that" - said in relation to when asked for my opinion about something.

And then today, I came across a post shared by a friend. I have modified it in order to include those that it was excluding and hopefully it 1) helps inspire others to love the life that they are living and have been blessed with, and if not, to then change what they don't like about their lives; and 2) helps others understand how I live the life that I have been blessed with.

Some of these are easier than others, and we will each have things that speak to us stronger than others (and perhaps none will speak to you) but I feel that there is such importance in sharing of these thoughts and processes that may be of use to others.
It's all a growth process and some days are harder than others, but this post by my friend was a great reminder of the things that I like to work on.

Thank you all for continuing to be on this journey with me. I hold much love in my heart for each of you.
Besos!


To invent one’s own life and to live it according to one’s vision requires the companion qualities of imagination and courage.

Be autonomous. Seek no one’s approval and listen to our own counsel. Answer to no one. Try not to impress anyone. Let your work speak for itself. Never make excuses and rarely offer explanations for your actions. Try not to be defensive so as to not be threatened by what other people may think of you. You are in control of your own life and this is reflected in your demeanor.

Be passionate. This shows a palpable energy and enthusiasm that is contagious and beneficial to those around you. In esoteric terms, you will raise the vibration in a group situation. You will inspire others.

Continually learn and evolve.

Be authentic. The mask that you present to the outside world is the same as your innermost heart. Learn to express your emotions cleanly and healthily. What you see is what you get. Know your own truth. Do not impose your truth on others, but share your wisdom when invited to.

Take care of yourself. Do not expect others to take care of you. Treat yourself as well as you would your best friend. Be compassionate and forgiving with yourself and others. Get enough rest and give your body the right fuel – both in oxygen and in food and water. Know what you need. Feed your soul.

Be committed to healing the earth and work towards peace and understanding – whether it is on a large scale or simply within your family and closest circle of friends. Contribute to cleaning up the environment and teach the next generation to do likewise.

See your body (and the earth) as sacred, and be in tune with natural cycles. Be comfortable with your sexuality.

Learn balance and patience. Flow and ebb. Waxing and waning. Try not to stress during ebb and waning times. Use it wisely for rest, reflection, and planning.

Trust your intuition and inner knowing. Learn to tap into this source at will.

Learn to let go of the need to control the flow of the river. Discover the futility of trying too hard. Learn to ride the wave and go with the flow, to ask for and accept when required. Be flexible, fluid, and adaptable. Give up the need to control or manipulate. Do not pout or whine when you do not get your way.

Communicate your boundaries. Be gentle but firm when your boundaries are violated. Respect others’ boundaries. Ask for clarification when necessary.

Recognize and honour others. Lend your support to the work of others. Do not feel competitive or threatened by others, and understand that what is good for one is good for all and that when one shines, the light benefits all. Know how to share and be generous of spirit, but know your limitations and do not give more than what you can afford – emotionally, financially, physically, or energy-wise.

Find the natural state of joy and gratitude. Be at home with your shadow and honestly mourn your losses and explore your fears. Understand that everyone experiences pain – it is a part of life on earth. Therefore work through your own pain with courage and dignity, do not try to sidestep it, or numb it, but go through it and learn from it.

Try to learn to be comfortable with death, and learn to let go… of relationships, concepts, and material possessions that are worn out, or that no longer serve as growth.

From 1,525 metres to 5,000 metres, what a difference a week can make…

A visit by my sister prompted the planning of a couple of different trips outside of La Paz.

COROICO!
The weekend started with a planned trip with 7 friends to Coroico, a town located in the north Yungas region, just 2 to 3 hours away from La Paz, and a great way for my sister to acclimatize to the altitude. 5 of us decided to take the option of riding bikes down the infamous Death Road that winds its way from La Cumbre pass (4,650m), a short 1hr drive away from La Paz, all the way to Coroico (1,525m).
Along Calle Saganarga in La Paz, you can find numerous companies who offer this bike trip. We decided to go with Altitude Biking, a part of Altitude Adventures, located just a few blocks away from San Francisco church on Calle Santa Cruz.
Our trip was fantastic! Even with rainy starts, we made our way down the paved road at the start and then onto the Death Road – a narrow, winding road that has steep drops of hundreds of metres to one side, and often passes under waterfalls. We were soaking wet through multiple layers of clothing, mud-caked faces, but grinning ear to ear. The only things that I would recommend bringing are two pairs of glasses: a clear pair if the roads are muddy as this will help keep the mud out of your eyes as you head down the hills, and a tinted pair for when the sun peaks through the clouds.
Two guides (one who shoots photos throughout most of the trip) and a support van accompany you throughout the entire trip. The van carries food, water, and all of your belongings so you don’t have to worry about carrying any extra weight, or breaking your camera. The trip ends with hot showers, a lunch buffet, and pool time at a private resort.
Our group of friends decided to rent a house for the weekend, complete with our own pool, a couple of hammocks and parrilla (a wicked outdoor bbq set up) to use. I would highly recommend that anyone who is looking to rent a place to check this one out; although a little away from town, Villa Saracena was a fantastic home away from home.

3-DAY SALT FLATS TOUR DURING SEMANA SANTA
A must see in my opinion are the salt flats of Uyuni, complete with a tour around the flamingo filled coloured lakes in the south, volcanoes, sleeping in a salt hotel, and bathing in hot springs.
We decided that since it was Semana Santa (a.k.a Easter weekend) – and that a lot of people would be travelling during that time – that the best thing would be to book our tour from La Paz even though it ends up being more expensive as we would be guaranteed spots on a tour on the days that we were looking for. As our experience with Altitude Biking was a great one, we decided to once again book with Altitude Adventures for both the transportation down to Uyuni and the 3-say tour from Uyuni around the salt flats. Our overnight transportation was booked with the company Todo Turismo, who, not only include a light dinner upon leaving La Paz and a light breakfast upon arrival in Uyuni, but who also run on time. The 3-day tour was booked with the family-run tour company called Lago Minchin who were absolutely excellent. Our group consisted of my sister and I, two girls from the United States, and a lovely couple from Australia/New Zealand. Our tour guide Ollalio (or uncle as we affectionately called him in the end) grew up in the area and provided us with all kinds of stories about his youth. His years of experience as a truck driver were definitely present during the 3 days, and although he did not speak English, he connected with everyone in our group and made sure that everyone was comfortable at all times – even when one of us had forgotten her passport back at first hotel that we had stayed at. Our cook Livia (or maybe it was Lucia?) was fantastic. She took care of us like any aunt would, and was always looking out for us at all times. She made sure to point out any fauna or flora that we came across, and provided all kinds of information about the area.
By the end of the 3 days, we had formed a little family of various Anglophones with our Tio and Tia. I would highly recommend booking with Lago Minchin if you are looking for a close-knit, well-organized tour – but be aware that if you are not comfortable with your Spanish level, you will probably miss out on explanations about the scenery but that you will always be well taken care of.

Sports and other adventures

Since I arrived, I was really keen on attending at least one soccer (football) match while I was here. La Paz has two teams: Bolivar and The Strongest. The Strongest were lined up to play Brazil’s Atletico Mineiro – a team that no other than Ronaldhino plays on, and a couple of friends were already buying tickets so they picked up an extra one for me. Not only did I get to catch a game here, but I also got the chance to see Ronaldhino. Tickets were pricier because of the star factor but even after splurging on the more expensive tickets (“Preferencia”), they still cost Bs100, which is approximately $14 USD so for most who have been to games in Canada, this was a great price. The only downside was that seats are not numbered so it is best to arrive early in order to secure a good spot – which we did not do and ended up spending the first half of the game watching from behind the players area (with their bench covers, we could only see the pitch at one end), we did move for the second half and caught the game from sitting higher up in an aisle.

For a little while, a group of us had been planning on cycling from El Alto to Lake Titicaca, which is about 60kms. Our plan was to rent bikes from Geo Trek, located on calle Sagarnaga, on Friday evening after work. At $17 USD for the day, I wasn’t too sure what condition the bikes might be in but I was keen on giving it shot. Efrain and Delfin are amazing! The two of us who were renting ended up with some well taken care of bikes that were ready for our adventures the following morning.
We were aiming to catch a bus at 7am that would take us up to El Alto where we would begin our ride… that was before an evening that started off with dinner but ended up catching up with friends in a watering hole called “Abbey Road”, then to check out this other bar that none of us had been to (nothing to really write home about), then a quest for some dancing that had us stopping by a friend’s restaurant “Maphrao On”, where some of La Paz’ best DJs were celebrating the birthday of one of their own with spinning some great music…
In any case, 7am came very quickly and although running on 3 hours of sleep, the four of us were en route 45 minutes later. Once in El Alto, we went on the hunt for a place with a presta adaptor as one of us was riding a road bike and definitely needed some extra air pumped into the tires before starting off on the ride. After some serious searching at multiple tire places, we finally found one mechanic who had made his own presta adapter that included holding a couple of flat rubber pieces together while pumping up the tire.
Bikes ready, we were off to tackle the traffic of El Alto. After battling heavy traffic, street markets, muddy roads and massive speed bumps, we were finally on the highway, heading north to the lake!
The highways here can be pretty scary most of the time but somehow, on bikes, I didn’t feel threatened by the speed nor the way that people drive here. We stayed on the large paved shoulder and the only thing that we had to watch for were the minibuses that stop anywhere to pick up or drop off passengers along their routes. Most people both in cars and in the towns along the way were first surprised to see us on bikes (we were three girls and one guy) and then would smile when we would say “buenas dias” while pedalling along. As usual, any other cyclist that we would meet along the way would get a wave and a “buenas dias”; although there weren’t that many, the majority were men from one town cycling to the next one, and one touring cyclist.
Although we were delayed and didn’t make our full 60 kms, we were able to complete 50 kms of our trip and enjoyed a tasty treat of fresh trout, rice and potatoes. What surprised me was that although I have not been on a bike since leaving home over a month ago, plus the factor of fighting a cold, and cycling at 12,000ft, my breathing wasn’t affected.
After our well-deserved lunch, we caught a bus back to El Alto and after getting lost for a little while, we found our way on to the Autopista and rode back down into town just in time to return the bikes and get ready for the fancy jello shot party that one of our fellow cyclists was hosting that night.

Next up? A weekend in Coroico, with tropical weather, swimming, and hopefully more cycling!

Feria and anticuchos

Well, this week's post revolves around La Paz and a couple of things that make up the amazing fabric of this city: feria of El Alto, and anticuchos.

Beginning with la feria de El Alto - this is a market that occurs every Thursday and Sunday in the El Alto neighbourhood of the city. It has a reputation of being a bit of a dangerous neighbourhood where you don't want to be wearing anything indicating that you have money so I definitely did not bring my camera (sorry!), but something that my friend told me is that in recent years this area - and la feria in particular - has gone from a place where pickpocketing is common to a place where families with strollers can be spotted.

Now what is la feria though? Well, it is a gigantic market of goods - and really any kind of good to be honest. From second-hand clothing to electronics to construction materials to car parts (and cars!) to produce and cooked food, la feria spans multiple blocks with each of these segments (clothing, electronics, car parts, etc) separated more or less from the other. The origins of some of these goods is questionable - good will from Western countries? stolen goods? Your guess is as good as mine. One thing is sure though, if you are looking for something in La Paz and you can't find it in the usual spots then you will more than likely find it at la feria de El Alto.

As for the second thing in today's post, well, anticuchos are a popular late-night eat that can be found on the streets of La Paz (and various other cities.) Anticuchos are skewered pieces of meat that are grilled over a fire and served with a spicy sauce and potatoes. The meat in question is typically beef heart, and although I wasn't too sure that I would want to try it, after a night out dancing with friends, anticuchos sounded like the best idea in the world. I will say that they are incredibly tasty but to perhaps pass on the spicy sauce as vendors tend to save and reuse the sauce day after day, making a new batch only when they run out (which can be many days later.) What my adventures of that night resulted in was a Saturday spent sick in bed for the majority of the day. So next time, "anticuchos sin aji* por favor!" - anticuchos without spicy sauce please!
*aji (pronounced ahi) is the name typically used for a spicy sauce.

Next up: a fun 60km bike ride in the altiplano this Saturday with the reward of a fresh trout lunch! I can't wait!

Ultimate Frisbee at 3,500m? Sure, why not!

The past two Sundays, I have ventured to the Zona Sur – an area in the southern part of the city to partake in Ultimate Frisbee (or Ultimate, or Ulti) with the Alti Chasquis team. The Alti Chasquis were formed just over a year ago by a couple of Canadians and an American who were keen on keeping up with one of their favourite activities. Since then, another team of primarily Bolivians has formed and new members are always joining.

For anyone not familiar with Ulti, it is a game played with 2 teams of 7 (or fewer) players on the field whose goal is to mark a point by passing the disc between members of their team until reaching the end zone. For more details on Ulti, Wikipedia has a great overview here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultimate_%28sport%29

For more news on Ulti in Bolivia, check out this article (page 27) that was recently published in the Montreal Ultimate magazine "Le Discours" – but be warned, c’est en francais so be sure to either dust off those French skills or find a friend in Google translate!
http://content.yudu.com/Library/A1zfre/Discoursdition2012/resources/index.htm?referrerUrl=http%3A%2F%2Ffree.yudu.com%2Fitem%2Fdetails%2F634529%2FDiscours---dition-2012

What has been interesting for me is that after spending most of last summer catching friends’ Ulti games and tournaments, I never did get into playing the sport but now that I am in a country where sprinting (let alone running) can be a challenge for me, I have been out practicing drills and learning how to play. Sometimes it just takes a whole new place to really get you out of your comfort zone – and perhaps it’s just yearning for some kind of cardio as I long for my bicycle...

And so, if any of you find your way to Bolivia (or any of the other countries with Ulti teams) and would like to play some Ulti, be sure to seek these teams out; more than likely you will be able to find them on Facebook!




Photos:
1) Cecilia arriving in style to another day of Ulti;
2) The field in La Paz.

From meetings to art

It all began with a sporty endeavour of attempting to play ultimate frisbee with one of the teams here. I will admit that it is an incredibly fun and that I am enjoying the challenge of playing in a high-altitude desert; especially the running part. Most of the players are foreigners who are living and working here in the city although there are a few locals on the team as well; and from what I understand, the other ulti team is mainly formed of locals.

Anyways, I digress… through meeting people at ulti, I have discovered some local art galleries. One of them is where a friend of mine has his work on exposition (http://pablosomething.blogspot.com), another is the Contemporary Museum, as well as the National Museum (http://www.mna.org.bo) where I have been able to catch a couple of openings (one of watercolours from Ohio, and another of photography during the 1960s/1970s.)

Other fun discoveries this week have been to catch fun local break-dancers practicing every night at a spot near the Plaza Murillo, wandering around markets and having great conversations with sweet old ladies, discovering both a tasty Korean restaurant and a great Japanese one, as well as checking out the beautifully coloured Calle Jaen filled with amazing local craftworkers.

CED times

This week, the CED (Community Economic Development) group whom I am working with, held various graduation ceremonies - in La Paz, the city of Oruro and the community of Viacha - for those who have finished a complete series of courses in the CED program over the past few years.

These courses are designed with and to convey the principles of community economic development which includes participatory involvement in order to maintain a bottom-up approach to economic development. Furthermore, CED also focuses on the idea that "capital" does not only imply "economic" but that it also includes other various forms such as physical, natural, human, cultural and social, and that these other forms of capital also support the richness of a community.

During these ceremonies, it was very moving to hear testimonials from the graduates about what CED means to them and how they are looking to apply it further in their lives. Additionally, graduates also shared successful implementation of the CED process in current, thriving projects that participants have begun since taking these courses.

Personally, these were great opportunities for me to learn more about the CED program in the Bolivian context and its utility for people and their communities. It was also a moment to meet members of Viacha with whom I will more than likely be meeting and working with over the next couple of months. This included having a lovely conversation with a young mother in the community whose husband is a recent graduate of the program. This lady expressed such desire to participate in the next course set as she really appreciates having educational opportunities in her own community and sees how much she could benefit from the program. She would have taken the program with her husband, only she was carrying their now 6-month old son.

This was also the opportunity to learn and be included in both Bolivian and indigenous cultural traditions. This included learning about how and when events take place (they can start when people get there - which can be quite some time after the "official" start time), social/cultural etiquette (accepting offerings of drinks or food, as well as pouring some of your drink on the ground in honour of the Pachamama or Mother Earth, sharing glasses with others in the community), as well as Ayni - the Andean act of reciprocity.
Finally, I was touched to be presented with a necklace of coca leaves as well as having confetti showered over my head by one of the graduates. Intercultural learning at its best.

A little bird told me...

This weekend, a group of us ladies went to check out the Alacitas market - a market where people purchase small versions of the things that they would like to have in their lives in the coming year. This can range from mini cars, tools, degrees, money, passport, bank account, food (aka abundance of food for the coming year), a healthy baby, a rooster (for a man to be in their life), a hen (for a woman to be in their life); pretty much anything that you can think of, there is a miniature for it.

The market also hosts a variety of food stalls such as api (a corn-based drink made in a big vat), as well as more of the traditional wares area where pottery from Cochabamba and woolen goods are for sale. There is also an area with games and fair rides for children, roaming clowns, as well as fortune tellers - just like a good old fair.

While we were wandering around the alleys of the market, we came across a man with a birdcage. In it there were two budgies and their specialty was, upon payment of Bs3 (about 50cents), the budgie would choose a folded up piece of paper from a drawer below their cage and would then bless it by kissing it and touching it with its foot.

This is what he choose for me...
Para una senorita.
Las puertas del destino estan abiertas, tu debes elegir con cautela el camino hacia el progreso y bienestar de tus seres queridos.
No derroches el poco dinero que tienes por que le hara falta mas tarde: probablemente en esos meses que bienes te llegara una noticia que tendra esperanze tiene para tus amores.
El hombre es un joven trabajador y de gran porvenir, luego les acompanaras la prosperidad de dia en dia y seras madre ejemplar de varios hijos los mismos que te protegeran tu verez y viviras rodeada por toda tu familia hasta una edad avanzada.
Dentro de pocos meses haras un viaje que te ha de resultar bien en negocios y tendras un buen capital.

Translation:
For a young lady.
Destiny's doors are open and you must cautiously choose the path of progress and well-being of your desires.
Do not squander the little money that you have as you will need it later. Most likely, in the coming months, you will receive word that will give you hope in your love affairs.
The man is a young worker with a great future. Prosperity will follow you both and you will be a exemplary mother to your children who will take care of you in your old age. You will live surrounded by your family well into an advanced age.
In the coming months, you will travel and this will lead to good news in business/work and in capital gains.

P.S. what was interesting is that two of the ladies that I was with also had the bird choose their fortune and for both of them who are mothers, he chose ones that were "para una senora" and that were also different from each other. Quite the sweet little entertainment.

Una semana paceña

“paceña or paceño” is what you call a person/thing who/that is from La Paz. Spending many consecutive days out and about in the city was a great way to become more comfortable living here. Shopping for groceries in the street markets, meeting local climbers and checking out nearby indoor and outdoor spots, I haven’t quite found a rhythm to my life here but it will slowly come.

Some highlights of the week: having fresh trout on the shores of Lake Titicaca, enjoying a night view of the city from the top of the Radisson hotel in lovely company, meeting local climbers and getting to explore one of the local crags, walking through the Alecitas market – a seasonal market selling various miniatures that one buys and has blessed by a shaman in order to set the intention of achieving it by this time next year, and enjoying a local folkloric group at a peña.

I realized that it may sound like I haven’t worked yet but in reality this week was shorter as we had Monday and Tuesday off. Work has been progressing well and we have both the coordinator of the project and the director of the centre through which the project is delivered who are currently in town. This coming week will be busy with both planning meetings and visits to the community; so on that front, all things are definitely progressing.

Toodles!

Carnaval times

Sparkling turns, terrifying faces;
Dancers in unison;
Carnaval estas tu.

La Virgen and cars;
Offerings for new year;
Carnaval estas tu.

Charque for sale;
Ponchillos, ponchillos;
Carnaval estas tu.

Where are you from?
How long have you been here?
Carnaval estas tu.

Foam in my hair;
Water guns at my back;
Carnaval estas tu.

These words cannot even begin to convey the experience of Carnaval. The smells and sounds varying from the pleasant to the vulgur are all a part of the wonder of this celebration.

As it turns out, Carnaval is not only celebrated in Oruro but this is the city to experience the bolivian Carnaval as it is the biggest and most well-known event. A parade with thousands of participants come down a main street lined with bleachers where observers purchase their spot for the two-day parade. Costumes of various forms walk, dance, jump, down the street, most groups accompanied by their own marching band. Side-streets are lined with food stalls as well as vendors selling umbrellas, ponchos, sunglasses, "espume" which are cans of foam that are used to spray foam into each others' faces, especially if one is a foreigner...

La Paz also holds a parade down one of the main avenidas but my experience of it this past Sunday has it coming in below the parade in Oruro. I can only guess that this one has more school-aged participants and isn't as organized/has a different purpose than the one in Oruro. The one thing that La Paz upped on Oruro was the amount of foam spraying and water attacks. In La Paz, participants step it up a notch with water guns making way for water balloons and water bottles. The other thing that Pacenos (those who live in La Paz) also do is attack people from their cars - as was my experience Sunday morning on my way home from breakfast. From a passing car, a little girl of maybe 4 years of age spray foamed me in the face. She had wicked aim for a wee one her age.

In any case, Carnaval, you are a 4-day festival that I will not soon forget. I still don't understand all of the symbolism; perhaps one day though...

Manana manana

So it appeared that “manana manana” was my mantra in the days leading up to my departure for La Paz but soon enough, it was 3:30am and my bags were packed. Running on an hour sleep, I made my flight and was en route to La Paz with stops in Los Angeles and Lima first. My fingers were crossed that once in LA, I would be able to switch to an earlier flight out of Lima, saving me from a 30hr travel day. Luck was on my side and not only was I able to change to the earlier flight but even with a short connection time in Lima, I was also able to catch that earlier flight; the only downside is that my bags did not make it with me and so I wait (note: while typing this, my luggage arrived - yay!)

As usual, the altitude is definitely slowing me down – La Paz sits at 3500m with the airport at 4000m. Not five minutes had passed since I had disembarked the plane that I could feel my heart beating fast and I was feeling slightly light-headed. To adjust to the altitude (and to shake off this cold that I seem to be nursing), I have been enjoying copious amounts of coca tea and ginger tea that should get me back on track over the next few days. The plan for here is to take it easy, although I do have to write a midterm tomorrow for the course that I am taking by distance, and then be ready for a fun festival this weekend in the city of Oruro as they celebrate Carnaval.